Graduation Day @ KIT, Amsterdam, Sep 2023

On September 1st, 2023 I graduated with a distinction in Master of Public Health from KIT, Royal Tropical Institute, Amsterdam. It was a wonderful culmination of the year long journey of ups and downs, but a year of great learnings. 

On the occasion my friend and fellow MPH batch mate, Craig Dube from Zimbabwe, and I gave a speech on behalf of the class. We got some rare compliments for the direct and so I thought I should leave it in print somewhere. Now you know what this blog piece is about :) I also have some pictures from the graduation day at the end of this blog. Enjoy!

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Lakshmi (LK): Good evening everyone - esteemed guests, faculty members, students of the MIH and MPH batch, family, and friends. It's an absolute honour and privilege to represent the 59th batch of MPH students at KIT for the second time in a year. 

I remember, when we started off an year ago in the reading room, I was in awe of the impressive setting. And now, to be here in this magnificent marble hall with all of you and an year full of rich experiences, I dare say, life is not the same, we are not the same. It feels surreal! We, the batch of 49 students came with dreams in our eyes and hope and excitement in our hearts. Today we are richer with knowledge and experiences, for sure, but more importantly, HUMBLED! Humbled, for we now know the depth and breadth of knowledge is far and vast, and the way it can impact lives is beyond imagination!

Craig and I delivering the speech at the magnificent marble hall

Craig Dube (CD): Yes. what a year it has been! We huddled together in groups to build a health system for a new country in two days, we wrote proposals that we believed would change the world, well maybe they will. We even had the health ministers who refused to pass our programme budgets without enough rationale! We learnt to read numbers as sentences and new words breached into our vocabulary to become a permanent part of it. DALY’s & QALY’s Blue boxes and gender equality became part of our everyday stories. But it was not all work and no joy. We had parties and danced nights away to songs which became our anthems. We shared food, learnt about each other's ways and cultures and realised we may have come appearing different but our ambitions desire to do good for our communities, connected us. We definitely had fun but then, we had some trying times too..

LK: "One day this terrible war will be over. The time will come when we will be humans again" Anne Frank wrote this in her diary in April 1944. Seventy nine years later in April 2023, the war in Sudan broke out affecting so many around the world including our Sudaneese friends in the class. From not being able to easily contact their families to hearing the bombarding in the background when on calls with them, to losing homes and family members to the crimes of war, and the uncertainties around them, our friends from Sudan have faced challenges that we cannot even fathom. In fact, challenge is a small word. I take this opportunity on behalf of the class to say this - Dear friends, We saw what you went through. We stand by you, professionally and personally, and we will do the best we can to support you. And I know it is easier said than done, but YES ... YES, THIS TOO SHALL PASS! <momentary pause>

This year also has been hard for many of our friends who faced a personal loss - loss of a parent, a sibling, a child, a family member -  to an enemy of mankind other than war - diseases. It wasn't easy at all. It was especially hard as our friends were away, here in a faraway country when their loved ones back home departed from the mortal world. Let's take a moment here to pray for their souls. [Pause] During these trying times, our facilitators provided us with great support. Thank you! We very much appreciate it. 

Despite all this, our spirits were held high, thanks to the support from so many quarters... We also travelled far and wide.. 

CD: Really? Remember how many people turned up at Sportsday in the Hague or that one gathering in Vondelpaark??. 

LK: ah! But then we all went to Geneva too. When was the last time you went on an inter-country school excursion like that?

CD: True true. And most of us still have our WhatsApp profile pictures set at the World Health Organization. We even went on a weekend Island trip to watch seals and enjoy the winter sun and maybe learnt a thing or two  about health systems in the same breath ...

LK: ha ha ha it was fun! But I think the best journey was that of the journey within. Don't you think so?

CD: I absolutely agree. As a cohort, we deeply appreciate the professionalism and commitment to service that our facilitators here present, those that could not be here and the diverse guest lecturers, exhibited throughout the course. We thank the custodians of this Sustainable development goals house for accommodating us the privilege to learn within its confines. It was indeed a long journey and by no means was it a walk in the park but we gather here today to celebrate the ups and downs of that journey. 

Even though some of us could not make it till the finish line at the same time, I understand that this cohort will remain a supportive community we can reach in to and walk the rest of the journey together. May the kindness, tolerance and empathy we exhibited to each other, be extended to the people we love, to the voices we represent and the callings we serve. To the MPH class of 2023, i leave these words by the late Paul Farmer to you “The idea that some lives matter less is the root of all that’s wrong with the world”So friends, Let us  continue our pursuit to challenge the MSE inequalities.

LK. Indeed. We did learn many things this year through the MPH course and look at the irony that life presents, these things happened back home in real - diseases and conflicts claimed lives and livelihoods. This only tells us that a lot of work remains to be done. That we have a lot of work to do. Earlier in this academic year, I had mentioned that this class is a walking-talking human library of over 30, three zero different health systems. But now i feel we are a collective force that has the immense strength and capability to transcend beyond our country borders ...to talk, share, innovate ... and change the face of global health! 

My friends, THE REAL WORK STARTS NOW ... AND HERE!!

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The promised pictures :)   

     

     Proud post-graduate - for the 2nd time

Also, distinction holder!!
With my academic advisor (and unofficial therapist), Elaine. 

Batch of 2022-2023

And here is the start of a new journey..

An Affair with Amsterdam - A starter Kit (see the pun??)

I have been putting this off for a loong loong time! And I realized, if not now, then never!

So here it goes!

First of all, welcome to Amsterdam! When I first googled about the city, all I saw was bridges and canals and I thought, how monotonous! But wait, give yourself time and allow yourself to open and soon, you will fall head over heels in love with the city. Before that, lets first address the needs.

1. Go for your BSN registration on day 1. The Dutch municipality offices don’t work on weekends and after 5 pm and rightfully so! Everything here works on an appointment basis. So, don’t turn up at a place and then be disappointed when the visit is not fruitful. It may take up to 3 weeks or even longer to get your BSN number. And until then you cannot open a local bank account or set up payment mechanism for renting a washing machine (I rented from wasgoed for a year) or get a subscription for phone or travel.

2. I hope you know cycling, and if not, I hope you can learn riding it pretty quick. Because apart from saving you a lot of money on travelling (expenses can go up to 100 euros a month without the cycle!!), it also helps you fall in love with the city a little bit more :) The Dutch refer to the cycle as bike, or fietse. My go-to fietse man is Safah. You can find him here on all days except Monday. Most establishments in Amsterdam are closed on Mondays. Not KIT though. :P

3. If you have given up on cycling, worry not cause the public transport system is good too! You can use your credit/debit card to buy tickets on the trams in the initial days (don’t bother getting a blue or the anonymous OV chip card). But as soon as you get your BSN number, apply for the personalized yellow OV chip card. This is helpful to get subscriptions on travel. You can later shift to the mobile app so that you don’t have to worry about carrying the card, but as of now the discounts and subscriptions are only valid if you have the yellow OV chip card. You will have to top up these cards at supermarkets or online until you can link your OV chip card to your bank account. Most importantly you need to ‘pick up’ the top up! I know, its super weird. Even more weird is that you can’t top up the cards inside the trams (not yet at least!)

4. If you love travelling like I do, get the NS flex for 5.60 euros and travel to other cities of Netherlands on 40% discount on weekends. This is a great deal! Trust me when I say there is more to the Netherlands than Amsterdam. Always remember, there is the Kingdom of Netherlands and Republic of Amsterdam, and they are vastly different from each other :P Also, download the following apps - GVB app, OV, NS, and Flixbus. Thank me later :)

5. Register yourself with a GP. Cannot stress enough how important this is, cause when you need one, you cannot just walk into one. You may be a doctor who knows what you need when you are unwell and so may think you don’t need a GP. That is a mistake! You will need a GP’s prescription for antibiotics, as you will not get them over the counter. Most GPs will be full, so get to searching the nearest one that will take you in. I used Centraal Doctors. 

6. The popular banks are ABN AMRO and ING. Whatever bank you choose, download the Tikkie app. You will need it when you hang out with friends for a broodje (bread) or beertje (beer).

7. Wondering which mobile network to use? Whatever you choose to do, do NOT buy the sim cards at the airport. Everything at the airport is expensive. If you know that you are going to be in the Netherlands for at least two years, you get better and cheaper mobile plans. You can simply walk into any Tabak stores and get a sim card without furnishing details or even paying for it!

8. Now let’s sort out the house supplies. If you are reading this while still in your hometown, I would highly recommend getting supplies which will last for at least 2 months. By then, the conversion of euros to your currency is less traumatic :P In case you could not get stuff from home, worry not. Here are your options. 

a. Dappermarket – You get ‘home brands’ of toiletries and household stuff here. It is also a great place for clothes if Primark is not your type. 

b. Action – the cheapest place to buy stationery, cycle fittings, house décor and everything else. If you want a bucket and mug (measuring jar doubles up as one!), go here.

c. Lidl, Dirk, and Voomer – these supermarkets are lifesaving, I mean money saving! You will need Google translator for shopping at the supermarkets. But don't worry, the access to their wifi is free too!

d. Albert Heijn is there in every neighborhood. Although on the pricier side, their options are different (maybe even classier). Remember to get their ‘bonus’ card! 

e. Kruidvat almost always has offers – the ‘buy one, get one free’ kinds. Make good use of it early on.

Eventually you will figure out where the eggs are cheaper or on what days of the week there are discounts or which rack usually keeps the discounted items. The magical words to know are actie, gratis, and korting.

9. Food is expensive in Amsterdam. Eating out is even more expensive. If you are like me who enjoyed eating out often back home, you will have to find alternatives. 

a. Supermarket food is cheap! The days you don’t feel like cooking, and you will have many such days, get that frozen pizza and throw yourself a party. Way cheaper than pizzas at a restaurant. It’s not for nothing that I called the supermarkets lifesaving!

b. Be Dutch during lunch! The Dutch eat bread and cheese for lunch. Not only is this less expensive than your country food, but it is also time efficient and is light on your tummy. You don’t want to doze off in the class after a heavy lunch, do you?

c. Work at a restaurant! As a student you are allowed to work for 16 hours a week. And the benefits of working at a restaurant is that you get free food! But hey, the course is hectic and requires your undivided attention until June. This recommendation is NOT for everyone.

d. Whenever KIT hosts a party at Tropen café and you come across their vegan bitterballen, help yourself to at least two of them. They are not bitter, and so lekker!

10. Shopping is an art in Amsterdam. So, try the markets first!

a. Albert Cuyp market – for street food to clothes

b. Waterlooplein market – They have great jackets for sure!

c. Noodermarket – this farmers market on Saturdays is a delight! Also, the cheese here is cheaper than Albert Heijn’s.

d. Dappermarket is a must visit. If you don’t find things here, chances of you finding it elsewhere is slimmer.

e. Vintage/second-hand stores - Not the branded ones near tourist areas, but the ones like Rataplan and the likes.

f. Also, download the vintage app. It’s a steal!

g. IJ hallen is where you go if you want everything for a bargain under one roof!

h. Zeeman is a good place to buy essentials, including raincoats, which you will soon realize is the most important accessory ever.

11. Talking about raincoats, the weather needs an introduction here. It rains on 270 days of the year here. But that should not stop you from stepping out. As the Dutch say, you are not made of sugar! Get that raincoat, don’t bother buying rainproof shoes, and get the Buienradar app. That is easily the most accessed app during my time in Amsterdam. Check the weather every time you step out and you are ‘rain ready’! Also, every time you step out carry a jacket and a raincoat (an umbrella is useful only when you are not riding a bike), irrespective of whether it is winter or summer. Remember, there is nothing called bad weather, only bad clothing! Despite all this, it is okay to complain about the weather. You are just on your way to becoming Dutch! :)

12. That brings me to culture. By the time you get to summer, you will figure out how to gezellig at one of the parks (Westerpark is my fav!) or have a barbeque party or just chill by one of the canals while sipping wine and biting off some good cheese. But until then, you could try the following:

a. Go to the Amsterdam cheese store and sample all their cheese for free. This will let you know which cheese to pack for lunch and what cheese to have in summer along with wine :P

b. Buy the museum card. I didn’t and I regret it so much! You could do one museum a week and still not be done with all the museums in the Netherlands.

c. Go to Mezrab on Fridays. I did that almost every Friday since being introduced to this amazing place of stories.

d. When the weather is great, go cycling - especially to the tulip fields in April.

e. Take the free ferry and go see Amsterdam Noord. It’s got an altogether different vibe!

That covers your weekends. You should really be studying on the rest of the days!

13. You have two main vacations during the term, and you will get to enjoy it if you have fared well in your exams. The vacation holidays are in December and in April. Plan ahead for cheap tickets and explore Europe as much as possible. I visited at least 10 countries during my one year of stay here. But hey, first focus on your studies.

14. If you want to enjoy the wonderful European summer, make sure your thesis is not stressing out. You see, June, July and August are the Friday, Saturday, and Sunday of the year in this part of the world. So, start working on your thesis at the earliest. 

15. You may be looking forward to some of the festivals. My top three are:

a. Kings Day. Google will tell you more about it. But get something orange for this day in April.

b. Gay parade. You would have never seen anything on these lines in your life ever. Get something in rainbow colors if you want to go see this canal parade in early August.

c. But the best festival is the Prinsengracht’s musical concert on the canal in mid-August. Do me a favor and stay back for the last performance. If you have fallen in love with Amsterdam like I have, this will be your most memorable moment in this city that would have by then become your home. 

16. Most importantly, make memories. Things can get hard. But hey, you will survive. Reach out, make friends, seek professional help if required, go bask in the sun whenever it is out, organize potlucks, dance together, sit by the canal, go boating in summer, get lost on your cycle, enjoy the flowers, and admire how the same patch has different flowers in every month. Do all this and more. This is going to be a magical year!

My lifeline!

Proost!

P.S: You can see my one year journey of life in Amsterdam on Instagram.  

Bonus content: Follow these two Instagram accounts. They are hilarious and an accurate representation of life and cultural differences you may have in the Netherlands. 

1. Let's double Dutch

2. Driplist

It's all about food in the city of joy....after all, food is joy, and joy is food!

After the Sikkim snowstorm story, we almost immediately decided that the next trip has to be to a forest. I was done with snow, at least for now. So, we decided on visiting the Sunderbans, what with the imminent fear that the river islands will soon get eroded! We opted for the 3 days, 2 night tour offered by Backpackers Tour de Sunderbans, and were to fly in and out of West Bengal via Calcutta/Kolkata in the last week of December.

Thankfully, both of us had seen most of the city's historic and religious monuments on previous visits. So, this turned to be a food tour of what Kolkata had to offer. The researcher that I am, did quite some research regarding the food in Kolkata. However, I could do no justice to all recommendations for the time that was very limited (just 3 days!). But to be honest to my commitment towards a food tour, my itinerary revolved around where to eat and what to eat. Below is the itinerary that we followed.

21st December: Land in Kolkata, and check-in.
1. Brunch: Peter cat, Park street (chelo kabab)
2. Nahoums, New Market (minced pie, lemon tart, almond tart, coconut ball, fruit cake, marzipan)
3. J.Johnson corner shop (semi-soft and smoked Bandel cheese)
4. JN Barua, Bow Barracks (channa poda)
5. Balaram Mullick, Park Street (channa poda, baked rasagulla, kheer kodum, mango dahi, gur bhara sandesh)
6. Dinner: Mocambo, Park street (Chicken ala Kiev and Fish Diane)

22nd to 24th December: Sunderbans tour

24th December: Reach Kolkata, and check-in
Lunch: Kasturi, New Market area (mutton kosha, and poshto)
Dinner: Pa Pa Ya, Park Street (mulled wine and dimsum)

25th December

Durga idols at Kumartuli

1. Nahoums, New Market (Cheese Samosa, fish Patrice, chicken pie)
2. Nabin Chandra Das sweets, near Kumartuli (gur rasagulla and regular rasagulla, rasagulla wrapped with malpua)
3. Kumartuli to see durga idols being made
4. Lunch: Arsalan (mutton biryani)
5. Visit to a friend's place
6. Local train from Shobha Bazaar to BBD Bagh to see Howrah from land.
7. Dinner: Mitra Cafe, Shobha Bazzar (fish kabiraji, diamond fry, prawn cutlet)
8. Cocktails: Moulin Rouge, Park Street

26th December
1. Breakfast: Flurrys, Park Street (all day breakfast)
2. Victoria memorial
3. Papdi chat, jalmuri outside the memorial
4. Lunch (part 1): Mocambo, Park Street (deviled crab, baked Alaska)
5. Lunch (part 2): Bhoj company, New Market area (betuki paturi, sukhto)
6. Sweets: Mishti doi, jamun, baked sandesh at Biswa Bangla, Airport

Pending for our next visit to Kolkata:
1. Coffee house, College Street
2. Street food: Puchka, ghugni
3. Shyam Bazaar. Golbarir Kosha Mangsho
4. Shiraz/aminia: Chicken/mutton biryani and phirni
5. Mocambo's pepper deviled crab
6. Bow Barracks: Street home food (cutlet, vindaloo) during new year
7. Saldhana bakery (walnut cake)

While I fulfilled so many of my wishes which were on my bucket list since years (Moulin Rouge, Fish Kabiraji, Flurry's, Mocambo...), I have few favourites elaborated below that I will repeat whenever I go to the city again, and needless to say, they are highly recommended too!

Checking off Flurry's from the bucket list

1. Place: Mocambo, Park Street
What I loved: Chicken ala Kiev. This dish is insane. I am in a dilemma if I should reveal the surprise or not. Do me a favour, just go order it!
Other favourites (not mine, but of other Kolkata dwellers): Deviled crab (cheesier), Baked Alaska (it's all in the presentation).
What to remember: This place does not take table bookings and often involves long waiting periods. So, opt for a time that has less takers.

2. Place: Nahoum and Sons, New Market
What I loved: I really can't pick a favourite. Given a chance, I would have my breakfast of pies and cakes here everyday. I had the cheese samosa, mince pie, chicken pie, almond tart, marzipans among others (Just typing that made me hungry!). Just go there and pick what attracts you.
What to remember: Go early. I had to endure a long queue for almost half an hour a couple of days before Christmas, only to find most items sold out!

The loong pre-Christmas queue at Nahoum's

They all were yummmm!

3. Place: J Johnson (corner shop), New market
What I loved: The semi-soft, smoked Bandel cheese. If you like the smoked flavour in your dishes, this is a must have. All of Rs.8 for the size of a peda, this is quite a buy.
What to remember: After you fall for the cheese in the first bite and want to take it home, buy the dry one. The dry ones stay for a year, and when needed, has to be just soaked overnight.

4. Place: Balaram Mullick, sweet store.

You cannot stop at just one!

Disclaimer: I don't like sweets. So, while I maybe choosy here, feel free to indulge yourselves.
What I loved: Baked rasagulla! And Kheer Khadum (pronounced khodum), which is basically dry rasagulla coated with dry shredded kheer.
Other favourites: Jal bhara sandesh (pronounced Jol bhora sondesh), which is molten jaggery within sandesh; Chenna poda (roasted cheese); gur rasagulla (jaggery rasagulla)...
What to remember: There are many outlets throughout the city. Also, pick one of whatever sweet entices you at the store before deciding what to indulge in.

5. Place: Mitra Cafe, Shobha Bazaar

Fish Kabiraji

What I loved: Fish Kabiraji. The origin of the name is 'fish coverage' as it is fish fillet covered with egg. Introduced by the then resident Britishers, the dish stayed to eventually become 'kabiraji' from 'coverage'. Everyone here orders just this one dish!!
Other favourites: Diamond fry which is a crisp fish fillet served with mustard sauce.
What to remember: The place opens at 5 pm, and apparently sell out by 8 pm. Also, the place does not have more than 5 tables cramped up in a tiny space. Indian Coffee House in College Street also dishes out great fish kabirajis.

6. Street food - anywhere!

Jalmuri

What I loved:
      A. Rolls at Hot Kathi Roll near Park Hotel, and Kusum rolls, midway on Park Street. I had them in my previous visit and unfortunately couldn't squeeze time for the rolls this visit.
      B. Jalmuri. This is the Bengali cousin of bhel puri, only more spicier and with a generous dose of mustard.

I missed out on trying the puchka, ghugni, chowmein,.. Seems like I will have to plan a visit again soon.

7. Authentic Bengali food, multiple places.

Disclaimer: I am not a Bengali and hence, I may not be able to distinguish authentic cuisines from non-authentic ones. So, Bengalis, spare me on this one.
What I loved: Sukhto and Betuki Paturi, Bhoj Company, New Market. I had had my lunch and was full when I ordered these dishes. Yet, the mustard flavoured dishes completely won me over.
Other favourites: Poshto, mutton kosha
What to remember: These dishes are rich in mustard flavour. So, tread slowly if you are new to the flavour. 

Where to stay?

Vintage love!

If you are a traveler like me who spends less time in the room and more outside, I totally recommend Sunflower Guest House, close to Park Street, (just across Mocambo) for budget stay. I stayed here even on my first visit, and will stay here on my future visits too.

What I loved: The vintage look of the entire place and the lift of course. The proximity to both Park Street and New Market is such a bonus for the price!

What to remember: Book the AC rooms as they are larger. The rooms are basic and clean, but not luxurious.

Sunderbans tour

We went with Backpackers Tour de Sunderbans, and I think it is easily one of the best choices I made on this trip.
What I loved: From the word go, these guys are well organised with tastefully done office and eco-village.
What to remember: Although basic, the food and stay are good. The weather was on the colder side when we visited and hence, warm clothes will be useful. There are more chances of you not spotting the tiger. Don't let that disappoint you. Look around if you are a bird watcher; or simply relax on the boat with a book.

Sunset at the eco-village

So, go ahead and plan your next trip to Kolkata. There is a lot of information on places to visit available on the net. This blog post will help you with what to eat, esp if you are a non-vegetarian. 

I will have to stop blogging now, because my smoked Bandel cheese is calling out to me. 🙂

Varanasi Diaries

We traveled to Uttar Pradesh in April 2017. Yes, yes, very hot. But, beautiful!

The itinerary was as follows -
Lucknow for the Nawabi architecture and food (2 days)
Allahabad for the prayag and well, food!! (1 day)
Varanasi for the experience (2.5 days)
Sarnath (half a day)

However, Varanasi stole the limelight and hence this blog post is dedicated to the oldest city of the country.
Diary entry 1 - Boat rides and the ghats

I saw the ghats of Varanasi first in the fading light of the day and was mesmerised by it. The boat ride from Assi ghat to Manikarnika ghat was enchanting, except for the mosquito like insects. At the Dasashwamedh ghat there were boats aplenty, thus our boat got the farthest 'river space' to witness the famed Ganga aarti which was the agenda of this first boat ride.

We took our next boat ride along the same route next morning. The view from the boat ride gives the bigger picture - of the picturesque ghats and life associated with the ghats. The ghats are of myriad types - some colourful, some monochrome, some palatial, some simple, but all of them majestic. The people and their habits contribute to the changing hues of life every ten steps are so. Actually, there is no demarcation between the ghats - the changes are dynamic.



The ghats offers you a peek into its life. From boxing classes to young kids head diving into the water for their swimming lessons, from the classical music morning - Subah-e-Banaras to the Ghat Sandhya where dances are performed every evening to enthral the transient crowd, from the localites who obtain their morning dose of meditation to the people who have travelled far and wide to wash off their 'sins', from those sleeping peacefully on the ghats to those who arrive 'sleeping' to attain salvation, the ghats offer a view of almost every spectrum of life one can imagine.

Dasashwamedh ghat is believed to be the most spiritual of ghats and people throng to witness the Ganga aarti here. In the day time, numerous large umbrellas provide the shelter and address for the pandits who are much sought by the visitors for various kinds of appointment for/with their forefathers. It is probably the most occupied ghat.

Kedar ghat, also called Vijayanagaram ghat looks a lot like a temple in south India. So, it is no surprise that you see a lot of south Indians here. Apparently, just behind this ghat you can pamper yourself with authentic south Indian dishes.

Assi ghat is where the Subah-e-Banaras, a morning musical programme happens, along with the morning aarti. In the evening, Ghat Sandhya attempts to bring together the spiritual and the cultural aspects.

Kathak by the Ganges as part of 'Ghat-Sandhya' - an evening celebrating the confluence of art, culture and spirituality. 

As you walk you find Rajput era styled ghats, numerous shiv lings which are bathed in the Ganga water by the devout, a ghat covered with white sheets just washed by the washer-men in raincoats, many tourists taking photographs of the interesting graffiti, men painfully cleaning the river beds and pulling out any piece of plastic that catches their eye, saffron and black robed men with matted hair - some in in yogic postures, some meditating, some seemingly transfixed on something distant, some giving 'interviews' to the curious onlookers; men preparing their nets for fishing, some insisting on taking you on a boat ride, some smoking (it's Shiva's place after all), some massaging, some selling piping hot tea in earthen cups... Well,... I could go on and on. Like I said, life exists on the banks of this river. People live off her and by her. And what about the death, you ask? Mother Ganga has provision for that too.

Ghats of Varanasi

It is said that at Manikarnika ghat, also known as the burning ghat, the fire has never been put off as the ghat sees around 150 pyres each day! Life thrives along the ghats at Varanasi. And so, it completes the spectrum when you see the departed, brought from far and wide to one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi, dipped in Ganga, water poured into the mouth, and finally cremated on the banks. This is because the ghat is considered sacred and is believed that people cremated here receive moksha or liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth. Some people considered death as 'unholy', so it is surprising that this is situated very close to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. One needs to witness the action in this place to feel the weird calming experience of appreciating the ritual, and the livelihoods created out of it. Okay! This alone requires an entire blog post! Also, it is one of the 51 Shaktipeeths, as Mata Sati's ear-ring fell here, and thus the name.

The burning ghat. Source: Wikipedia 

Situated very close to the Kashi Vishwanath temple, Kachori galli is a narrow lane and a landmark on its own, which serves as an all time diner. A localite told us that there is also a custom where people, after cremating the departed at the Manikarnika ghat, make it a point to have kachoris in one of the many shops dotting this lane. Weird I thought! But, maybe that is to signify that 'Life Goes On'.

It is at Varanasi that it occurs to you that the Ganges is not just a river, but an emotion. She has stayed longer than anyone of us and witnessed not just eras, but the rise and fall of civilisations. While both the dead and the alive come seeking to the patient mother for salvation, the others live by her, and off her - truly a mother!


Diary entry 2 - Ganga aarti

On her many ghats, aarti is performed to Mother Ganga in the evening just after sunset. Hugely watched from the Dasashwamedh ghat, it does make for an event to be witnessed. The devotees and others flock the ghats to watch it from either the ghat or from a boat on the river. Mini stages erected on the ghat serve as stage for the pandits to perform the ritual facing the river with the crowd sitting behind and beside.

Young male pandits dressed in yellow/ orange shiny kurta, white dhoti, and other paraphernalia perform the ritual which lasts over an hour. Starting with the blowing of the conch, the pandits wave their hands during the aarti in various patterns which looks choreographed and staged mainly because they nervously look at each other as to what 'step' comes next and also to appear synchronized.
During the ritual, many items are used- a snake shaped aarti with flames that are tended to through out the aarti, a towering aarti with multiple lamps, incense aarti, peacock feathers' fan, and so on. The background score of chants and recorded bhajans provides rhythm for the aarti.

The much talked about, much anticipated Ganga aarti. The energy and enthusiasm is infectious

The crowd plays its part by clapping along which actually makes the whole atmosphere feel electric, and the energy is palpable. Marigold flower petals are thrown in the air occasionally. Some of the petals are distributed to the crowd who are requested to offer it to the river in the front after which, prasad is distributed.

The large flames against the dark sky makes it a spectacular event, but not really spiritual. Infact, the shayan aarti (aarti to put the Lord to sleep) inside the Kashi Vishwanath temple was more electrifying and provided that 'oneness' feeling.

It is interesting that people are allowed to witness the aarti with their footwear on. There are no qualms of what your religion is. It is open for all and when there are less rules, there is more acceptance. That is what Varanasi taught me.

To witness the Ganga aarti, reach well before dusk to secure the best place and witness it on any of the ghats. But for the best experience, watch it at the Dasashwamedh ghat. You can also watch it from the river on a boat and this gives a different perspective. Best, do both. First evening watch the performance from the ghat, next evening take the boat ride.

When the Indian army came to our rescue - a story of adventure, sacrifice and survival!

Blogging after ages for a reason... Read on to know why.

This year we decided to go to Sikkim for our annual vacation. We saw the Himalayas standing tall and mighty, visited the colourful monasteries, relished local food, experienced numbness and pain at -24°C, travelled 100 plus km and went 17800 feet high to see the mystical Gurudongmar lake only to be blocked by snow for the last 600 metres, was mesmerised by the monotone grey and white yet brilliant Yumthang valley, sang SRK songs and posed at Zero Point - the last Indian bunker which is 7 km from China with fellow SRK fans (oh yeah, you find them everywhere 😃), made snow man and did many many more touristy things. 

But well, this post is not about all these. This is a first hand account of a survivor from the snow fall that was in the news on Saturday, the 29th of December 2018.

We went on a day trip to Tsomgo/Changu lake and Nathu La (India-China border) on Friday (28th December) and were expected to be back in Gangtok by 5 pm. For the uninitiated, permits to visit this place are given only a day in advance based on weather among other things. Usually, 10 tourists go in a sturdy vehicle on a shared basis. On Friday, the weather was pleasant and we enjoyed the scenic journey. The plan was to visit Nathu La first and then come back to Changu lake. We had just passed by Changu lake when we heard of an accident to an army vehicle near Nathu La. Hence, vehicular movement was restricted and we were stuck in between vehicles.

To provide some perspective, we were at around 12,000 feet above sea level, the roads were slippery and narrow in the snow clad mountains, and the temperature was sub-zero. We started our decent down and stopped a little short of Changu lake to have some hot delicious food when it started snowing. This was the first time I was witnessing snow fall and was thoroughly enjoying it. However, in no time the size, intensity and nature of the snow fall changed drastically. The road was soon covered by a thick sheet of snow. Vehicles were jammed one behind the other, all trying to move out. We then we got the information that an accident had occurred down-hill. The snow makes the road slippery even for vehicles and was the reason for the accident. At 4 pm, we were given instructions to leave the vehicle and start walking. We were told to walk for around 5 km after which an army vehicle would transport us back to Gangtok.

We started walking and soon realised that apart from the cold weather, our major hurdle was the shoes we had as they were not equipped for trekking in snow. People slipped randomly and kept falling. Holding hands was not the best idea, as the other person would fall too in case you slipped. After around 4 km and 6 falls later (my count alone), at 5 pm it started getting darker and colder. There was no army or their vehicle in sight. Thousands of us continued to walk as that was the only way to keep ourselves warm. We came across vehicles in the middle of road, haphazardly parked, all indicating the hurry at which the vehicles were abandoned.

Tourists walking down in the fading light

Vehicles abandoned mid-way

About 8 km from where we started walking, we finally saw the accident site. Around 5 vehicles had collided back to back, probably due to skidding on the snowy roads, and had gone into the gutter on the right side of the road (the non-cliff side). If the vehicle had gone left, it would have dived deep into the gorge with its occupants. Shuddering at the thought, and thanking for the miracle, we walked past the vehicles still anticipating the army vehicle which would take us to the 'promised' land (which was now Gangtok). At the accident site we saw few army personnel estimating the damage. Frantic calls were being made to their superiors at the army base regarding the severity of the situation. We were told to walk another 2 km where we would be provided lodging. That is when the gravity of the situation sunk in - we were not going to be transported to Gangtok that night. 

I had by now lost count of the number of times I had slipped and fallen (15 times at least). One wrong slip and we would have been permanent residents of the deep gorge. Although, I really wished I could just ski down to the army base camp which was still not in sight. NJ held on to me steadily preventing me from falling multiple times. I admired the parents with kids on their back. I admired the kids who walked without complaining. I admired the elderly couples who persuaded each other. I admired each one who got up despite bad falls and continued walking. Amidst all this, it was hard to ignore the beauty of the valley. The clouds had disappeared, revealing the lovely dark blue sky with the stars shining brightly. A sight that we have grown up to but no longer see in the cities back home. So clear was the sky that it left us wondering if there was really a snow storm couple of hours ago. I wanted to stop by and admire for much longer, but I literally had miles to go before I sleep.

En route the last stretch of a kilometre or so, the elderly and women with young children were taken into smaller army buildings and others were asked to proceed further. Finally, 3 hours later and 10 km from where we started walking we finally reached the army camp, named 236 Transit Camp. The women were separated from the men and so, I was on my own. This reminded me of the scenes from the movie Titanic. The 500 odd soldiers had given up their dormitories with bunk beds for the women folk, while the huge gun repair workshop was converted into a shelter for the men folk who were provided sleeping bags. 

Women and children slept in dormitories with bunk beds.
Image sourced from NDTV

Men's sleeping arrangement.
Image sourced from NDTV

Hot milk was provided for the children as soon as they arrived. I found a corner on a bunk bed which already had 5 people on it. Dinner was announced and we were given roti, kichadi and apples. Washing the plates in cold water was another deal as my fingers felt numb. The plates had to be washed as they were in hundreds while civilians were in thousands. I witnessed sights of women frantically searching for their missing kids and men who called out for their family members. It was heart wrenching. The army men did their best to console them, saying they will all be found. They explained that their men had gone up searching for the civilians. The army men gave up their place for us and literally guarded us whole night standing in the cold. When the women felt anxious, they told them how the worse was over, how safe we were here and how their men would not rest until all was fine. We were told to inform them of even the slightest discomfort - nausea, breathlessness, chest pain as we were at an altitude of 12,000 feet which needs acclimatisation. There were 5 helicopters ready to handle any emergency. One of them was used in the night when a man developed breathlessness and was flown to Gangtok. Also, the freak accident that we saw did not claim any lives. 

Meanwhile, I tried searching for NJ, but in vain. Was he fine? No idea. Should I announce his name on the microphone? No, there were others who were missing. I at least know he is in the camp. To distract myself, I helped a woman who was having breathlessness and helped another woman find her child. I came back from dinner to see the bed now occupied by 7 people. I had just enough place to sit and stretch my legs. More people poured in. They kept coming in till 11 pm, as and when they were rescued. I tried getting some sleep, but couldn't. Would I survive the night? It was freezing cold at -12°C. Would NJ be okay? Would we be able to get our flight that was scheduled tomorrow? Will my parents be worried since my phone was not reachable? Could I have a blanket? There were none available. The army had given us everything that they had and I saw that the elderly and children needed the blankets more than me. I don't know if the army men ate that night. I definitely know they did not sleep. They did not sleep for us.

It was a restless night, but I woke up to see the light of the next day. I waited by the window to see any traces of NJ. And finally I did see him 12 hours later, shivering in cold. He slept in a metal hall (the gun repair workshop) sharing a sleeping bag meant for one. Scenes around me were filled with missing ones being found and hugged. The women I helped the previous night came searching for me and offered their thanks. Everyone seemed much more optimistic. It had begun to look like a happy ending. We stood in queue for breakfast and tea. This time the army was better prepared to serve the crowd as they now had disposable plates. Still, we ran out of disposable plates too. Civilians finally resorted to having the puri with pickle in hands. Few started feeling uneasy and were promptly looked after at a make-shift medical centre at the army camp. 

The sun showed up and the snow had finally started melting, but there was still no army clearance to drive on the road. We managed to get a soldier's BSNL phone (obviously the Vodafones and Airtels did not have any signal) to call home and the airlines to postpone the ticket. The army then announced that their vehicle would go first to check if the road was clear. If the road was clear for vehicles, we would be dropped off 10 km from the army camp after which other vehicles would take us to Gangtok. Priority would be given to elderly and families with children. Bachelors and couples were allowed to walk with army guidance only if they were physically fit. We decided to walk the 10 km than wait. We stood in the queue, got our names written and at 11 am, we started walking in the second batch. 

Melting snow meant more slippery roads and so we walked at even slower pace. It was easier to walk uphill than downhill, as there were lesser chances of slipping. Thankfully, the sun was up, bright and shining and hence, patches of road were cleared off the ice. After walking couple of miles, a vehicle stopped to pick us up. The driver, like other drivers had spent his night near Changu lake. He said the other vehicles had frozen and hence would take time to move. He had kept his vehicle's engine on throughout the night and so could start the vehicle in the morning. He said they burnt the spare tyres they had to keep themselves warm. He dropped us off at a police check post after which he returned to the army camp to pick up more people. The police arranged for us to get into local cabs to reach Gangtok. Buses were deployed by Sikkim government to pick the rest of us from the police check post.

The entire evacuation was organised and handled so well. I cannot put in words how fantastic the army was, for they gave the words sacrifice and commitment a whole new meaning. However, it would be unfair if I did not mention the unsung heroes - the Border Road Organisation (BRO), the cab drivers, the local people who cleared the snow with spades, the Sikkim government and police. An estimated 569 vehicles were stranded in the snow and 4199 civilians were evacuated in this operation.

The route we took on Day 1 of the ordeal. 17 minutes by vehicle but it took us 3 hours to reach by foot - thanks to snow, slippery surfaces, and darkness. 

The least way we could express our gratitude to the Indian army was by writing 'thank you' messages.

Now I am back, safe and warm in the plains. My hands hurt from the multiple falls, my legs hurt too, am having a fever and I am tired. But I am not complaining. For, I am alive with a story to tell and an experience of a lifetime.

Over and out.

A taste-bud's initiative

In Pune, every Thursday, I follow a ritual to go to a particular place of worship, for which I have to take a different route than the usual. And in this particular right turn that I take, Pune transforms to Mysore instantly! Thanks to the aroma of hot Sambhar wafting to the roads from Pune's THE South Indian restaurant. And thus, begins my weekly food nostalgia..

The same Thursday routine was followed in Mysore too (during my graduation days), and almost always ended up in the churmuri stall. I have travelled so many places in India, but I am yet to find churmuri like the one made in Mysore. Even neighbouring Bangalore does not come close. My brother once said, "I thought I will miss street food when I go to the US for higher studies, but I already miss it in Bangalore!" Such is Mysore's cuisine! :)

Churmuri!!                                                  PC:Pavan Reddy

My favourite and longest memory associated with food is during the lunch break at JSS Dental College for all the 5 years of BDS at the Katte. Lunch hour was the most anticipated hour of the day. The lunch boxes would be passed around for everyone to have a bit of the multi-cuisine lunch menu, what with having a group which had Coorgi, Christians, Muslims, Andhrite and a Kannadiga. So, you can imagine what a smorgasbord it was! 

Lunch time at the Katte

There were times when our dear friends in hostel would crave for home food during clinical hours. And student's lab was the best place to quickly go and sneak in some food into the tummy, irrespective of whether the tummy was grumbling or not! ;) The hostelites would return the favour by getting us bottles of yummy buttermilk from the hostel. Yes, you read it right-hostel food can be yummy too (conditions apply!) :P Speaking of students lab, we were overwhelmed when the patients, who were overwhelmed in the first place, got us food in those layered tiffin boxes! It was enough to feed an entire department! Cherish those fleeting moments :) By the way, am I the only one fascinated by these type of lunch boxes? I remember my salivary glands working over time while watching the movie 'Lunch Box'..

Eat while you work :P. My lunch box doing the rounds in the student's lab

When we are talking about food, how can one forget the place that we would resort to when we did not get lunch box - the canteen! During our times, the college canteen was pretty rudimentary compared to the huge building that it is right now there. I have seen the canteen's metamorphosis from the fenced wall canteen where fried rice was a standard order to the much more sophisticated, yet small canteen in 2005-2006 which served combos and swirl ice creams! Before this place came up, we used to buy orange/ mango/ grape ice candies from a small stall behind canteen which also housed a coin phone booth (yeah, thaaaaaat era!)

If we had slightly more time during the lunch break, we would head out to our then haven, Nimra. What a place! Pity, it does not exist in all its glory now. It catered to almost every cuisine (which we knew of then), and THAT was finger licking good indeed! The cost was very affordable and hence, it became our second canteen! Nimra has since then changed locations and hands. But, it still is a prized place for us. When one had little more vitamin M, then Blue Inn was the place to go. It was nothing like what exists right now. A tiny, not-so-dingy place where you would always bump into JSSites - that was Blue Inn back then. The testimony to their food is the fact that a deacde later, it is still much talked about in our Whatsapp group :) Cool Corner was another place that was frequented, summer or not. We had our first sip of cold coffee there and that beat every other feeling!!

Somewhere in between all these, emerged Nescafe. No, it is not just the name of a coffee brand. It was where students and staff alike, frequented more than once a day. A quick meal would most often be a vada pav and peach iced tea brought from a thoughtful friend while you were stuck in an extraction. The dishes got reinvented to noodle cutlets and noodle pakodas, and even the 'humble' Maggi has left us wanting for more. The boys working there were so accustomed to all of us that all we sometimes had to do was just find a chair, and our orders were ready without having us place them! It was our 'go to' place for the 11'o clock break or lunch break or post-college chit chat except, if you were posted in OMR or Conservative dept, as these departments had a direct view of Nescafe ;). In other words, it was the local 'cafe coffee day', where you could sit for hours with just a cup or sometimes nothing at all! 

Happy times at Nescafe! Our batch seemed to be there forever!! ;)

Many more eateries tug at our memories - the hot, yummy meals at Andhra mess, tea from Aunty's, sugarcane juice and corn cob from the stalls are amongst many Well, I could go on and on. But then, the salivary nuclei in my medulla oblongata has been stimulated with all the food talk :} Time to go and take a bite. Am sure, you will be needing a bite too. ;)

A sincere foodaholic,

Lakshmi Krishnan

Your wedding is NOT your wedding

Yeah! Doesn’t make sense right? But, it’s true. Am sure some of the married ones agree ;)

Me being me, I did not want to get married, but then I loved the idea of being ‘wedded’. Alright, probably everyone dreams about their wedding. But it completely slipped my mind that my parents have been dreaming of my wedding too! And so, the saga begins…

Things wouldn’t have been difficult had I

1. Not chosen ‘the’ guy all by myself
2. Not attended the turtle walk which got me closer to the environment (read about it here)
3. Not grown to be an independent girl with MY opinions, MY principles, and MY thoughts.

Well, what is an Indian wedding without all the drama, you say? ;)

I had always dreamt of a temple wedding. One of my cousins got married in Madurai Meenakshi temple and I thought it was magical! The thought was further romanticised by the wedding scene in the movie ‘2 states’ (do not bother googling the name of the temple – it was a studio setting much to my disappointment). And then, I attended a friend’s wedding in Guruvayoor, where the whole concept grounded me because of the simplicity. Brides along with their grooms stood in queues awaiting their turn on their ‘D day’ which was also the ‘D day’ for many others. It was then the ‘stardom’ feeling was kicked out of me. Needless to say, this feeling of ‘grounded’ was much stronger than the initial feelings of magic and romance of the temple wedding idea. I was never more sure about wanting a temple wedding. But well you know, ‘Your wedding is not your wedding’. The parents worried, “What will people say?”; the ‘people’ asked, “Oh! Why temple? You have only one daughter. You should get her married in style.” And here I thought we are proud of our temples' style and all! But gladly, the parents agreed :) So, finally it was to be a temple wedding in the morning followed by a lunch reception at a wedding hall. Wedding hall?? What??? WAIT!!! That was not what I meanttttttt...

After coming to terms to the wedding hall wala addition, I thought it was best to focus on the décor to feel better. After all, I had pitched in my ideas at various events, so I had a head start. Or so I thought. Turtle walks had heavily influenced my thoughts to ‘think local’. Our needs do not have to add additional burden on the environment for the sake of exotic flowers! Flowers are all about colours in wedding décor (not much for fragrance as we have cosmetics to do the job ;)). But hell I was wrong! Flowers have 'class' – the highly orchids and anthuriums, the middle class carnations and roses and the lower class gerberas and marigolds! Frankly, I was tired of all the orchids and huge canvasses at the weddings and wanted a traditional, simple décor using colourful marigolds, jasmine and roses. Inspired by a friend’s wedding in Chennai, I wanted re-usable components like bells and lamps and not thermocol which would add to the wedding generated thrash. Armed with the idea, I entered the battlefield. “Marigolds? Why are you saving so much? This is the only time you are getting married!”; the customary “What will people think?”; and the deadly “What marigolds? That is used only in funerals!” (while in North India, marigolds are even used as garlands for bride and groom!!). Negotiations later, I let go off the marigold because the funeral became an emotional point (I was already causing 'enough' emotional distress by choosing a guy of my choice….. ah!). So, roses , jasmines and bells it was! It involved a lot of drawings and re-drawings of the arrangement for the decoration guy, as he had never done something like this before. But thankfully, he was game for the challenge and this is how it looked..

Backdrop in white and red, and the bride was in green to contrast the colours :)
Yeah, the colours of my saree was decided after the backdrop colours were decided :P

Two discussions down, many many more to go…

I moved on to my favourite section – fooooood! I am generally the star at eating out, and have almost always been the one to order from the menu. Ergo, this was no big deal. Boy, I was soo wrong! Because, I not only had to satisfy the general criteria and wishes but also, the Marathi taste buds (thanks to yours truly marrying a Maharashtrian!). The only thing that was consensually agreed upon was the traditional south Indian yelle oota (plaintain leaf meal). And then it began..

Sweet #1 – Payasa of Sabudaana 

“That is fasting food! Not a celebration food”

“Okay, so semiya payasa?” “That’s so ordinary”

“Dry fruits payasa?” “That is too rich that I have seen people leaving it on the leaf, such a waste”

“Fruits payasa?” “Very courageous I would say”

“Ah! Let us just stick to safe semiya payasa”

Sweet #2 – “Chiroti laddu is a must”

“Too many diabetes patients these days, it will get wasted”

“But young people will eat na?”

“Majority of the guests will not be young, it’s a weekday wedding”

“But it is a signature dish. It will look grand too – separate plate and ….”

Wait! No food items that will consume plastic. Cancelled! 

Thankfully, this was not overruled!

…

…

…

Starter – Gobi Manchurian

“That is Chinese, not south Indian!”

“And it contains garlic”

“It can be made without garlic”

“But the taste wouldn’t be the same”

“Everyone has it these days. It is so ordinary”

“How about vada?”

“Nooo! It is served only in certain festivals and funerals”

“How about bajji?”

“Bajji is best when served hot and it becomes soggy later.”

“Oily too. People will waste it on the leaf”

…

…

…

And so it goes on for three hours before we finalise details - from the size of the water bottle to whether beeda needs a separate counter. Phew! After all that food talk, I am hypoglycaemic! ;)

This is only the first half of the menu..
A Maharashtrian fascinated by the south Indian plaintain leaf meal at the wedding captured this :)
Loved the colours!

The next ‘big’ decision was about invitation cards. And to ensure there is an argument, invitation cards come in all sizes and shapes; in single sheets to multiple layers and in vaaarious styles. Our ‘wants’ ensured that they go the full way too - from wanting it big to wanting it small enough to have just the date, venue and names. After all this, they find their way to the dustbins, not to mention the wastage of paper (in case you still don’t get it – climate change is for real, even before Leo said that last month). So we decided to get the simple card. And that was only the beginning of the card story. From the name of the male god and the female goddess to grace on the card, to the length of the address, to the size of the font - everything was a debate. We had the additional printer here who had to say no to almost everything we suggested. As we wound up, he asked, “cards for your friend madam?” Ah! And I thought we were in a digitised world.  Well, this is the ‘logo’ I Whatsapped to invite my friends and they were the coolest to consider it 'sufficient' to attend my wedding. Thanks dearies :)

The logo also went on tiny fridge magnets as souvenirs - custom-made with the famed Mysore palace as the backdrop :)

Talking about the attendees, I realised that my parents' invite list only grew lengthier each day – not by tens, but by hundreds!! Yeah, happiness should be shared and my folks took it rather seriously. And while I went about shrinking my personal invite list, my parents stretched it to include their 35 year old colleague’s neighbours who were known to my parents way before I was born! And that is when I gave up and realised that well, your wedding is not really your wedding! So there I was, standing on the stage, sweating it out in front of those lights, smiling on auto-pilot mode at the 1000 odd people - my parent's friends/colleagues/relatives, who have been their co-passengers in the journey of life. So, rightfully they have chosen an occasion to meet them all. I think I finally understood my parents, although it is very unlikely of me to follow their footsteps in making a wedding big and fat.

I frankly don’t remember much of my wedding..it seemed like a blur. Sometimes I wish to marry again, just to remember the events of the day you know. I mentioned it to my brother, and he asked, “you want to plan it all again?” No no! Not again!!

Well, while this blog was a lot about how things don’t really go the way you want them to, it is also my humble attempt to create awareness and engage in a healthy conversation at how we could downsize and downplay events. So feel free to share your thoughts. 

P.S – I thought I could manage my own wedding and trust me I did it till the last week. But then friends, family and most importantly, my parents did a great job in executing it! Here is a biiiiig shout to all of them :)

P.P.S – The blog above is just the tip of an iceberg, and has dealt with only few topics with a modest approach. Feel free to exaggerate and imagine on the other issues. It is an Indian wedding after all! ;)