After the Sikkim snowstorm story, we almost immediately decided that the next trip has to be to a forest. I was done with snow, at least for now. So, we decided on visiting the Sunderbans, what with the imminent fear that the river islands will soon get eroded! We opted for the 3 days, 2 night tour offered by Backpackers Tour de Sunderbans, and were to fly in and out of West Bengal via Calcutta/Kolkata in the last week of December.
Thankfully, both of us had seen most of the city's historic and religious monuments on previous visits. So, this turned to be a food tour of what Kolkata had to offer. The researcher that I am, did quite some research regarding the food in Kolkata. However, I could do no justice to all recommendations for the time that was very limited (just 3 days!). But to be honest to my commitment towards a food tour, my itinerary revolved around where to eat and what to eat. Below is the itinerary that we followed.
21st December: Land in Kolkata, and check-in.
1. Brunch: Peter cat, Park street (chelo kabab)
2. Nahoums, New Market (minced pie, lemon tart, almond tart, coconut ball, fruit cake, marzipan)
3. J.Johnson corner shop (semi-soft and smoked Bandel cheese)
4. JN Barua, Bow Barracks (channa poda)
5. Balaram Mullick, Park Street (channa poda, baked rasagulla, kheer kodum, mango dahi, gur bhara sandesh)
6. Dinner: Mocambo, Park street (Chicken ala Kiev and Fish Diane)
22nd to 24th December: Sunderbans tour
24th December: Reach Kolkata, and check-in
Lunch: Kasturi, New Market area (mutton kosha, and poshto)
Dinner: Pa Pa Ya, Park Street (mulled wine and dimsum)
I missed out on trying the puchka, ghugni, chowmein,.. Seems like I will have to plan a visit again soon.
7. Authentic Bengali food, multiple places.
Disclaimer: I am not a Bengali and hence, I may not be able to distinguish authentic cuisines from non-authentic ones. So, Bengalis, spare me on this one.
What I loved: Sukhto and Betuki Paturi, Bhoj Company, New Market. I had had my lunch and was full when I ordered these dishes. Yet, the mustard flavoured dishes completely won me over.
Other favourites: Poshto, mutton kosha
What to remember: These dishes are rich in mustard flavour. So, tread slowly if you are new to the flavour.
If you are a traveler like me who spends less time in the room and more outside, I totally recommend Sunflower Guest House, close to Park Street, (just across Mocambo) for budget stay. I stayed here even on my first visit, and will stay here on my future visits too.
What I loved: The vintage look of the entire place and the lift of course. The proximity to both Park Street and New Market is such a bonus for the price!
What to remember: Book the AC rooms as they are larger. The rooms are basic and clean, but not luxurious.
Thankfully, both of us had seen most of the city's historic and religious monuments on previous visits. So, this turned to be a food tour of what Kolkata had to offer. The researcher that I am, did quite some research regarding the food in Kolkata. However, I could do no justice to all recommendations for the time that was very limited (just 3 days!). But to be honest to my commitment towards a food tour, my itinerary revolved around where to eat and what to eat. Below is the itinerary that we followed.
21st December: Land in Kolkata, and check-in.
1. Brunch: Peter cat, Park street (chelo kabab)
2. Nahoums, New Market (minced pie, lemon tart, almond tart, coconut ball, fruit cake, marzipan)
3. J.Johnson corner shop (semi-soft and smoked Bandel cheese)
4. JN Barua, Bow Barracks (channa poda)
5. Balaram Mullick, Park Street (channa poda, baked rasagulla, kheer kodum, mango dahi, gur bhara sandesh)
6. Dinner: Mocambo, Park street (Chicken ala Kiev and Fish Diane)
22nd to 24th December: Sunderbans tour
24th December: Reach Kolkata, and check-in
Lunch: Kasturi, New Market area (mutton kosha, and poshto)
Dinner: Pa Pa Ya, Park Street (mulled wine and dimsum)
25th December
1. Nahoums, New Market (Cheese Samosa, fish Patrice, chicken pie)
2. Nabin Chandra Das sweets, near Kumartuli (gur rasagulla and regular rasagulla, rasagulla wrapped with malpua)
3. Kumartuli to see durga idols being made
4. Lunch: Arsalan (mutton biryani)
5. Visit to a friend's place
6. Local train from Shobha Bazaar to BBD Bagh to see Howrah from land.
7. Dinner: Mitra Cafe, Shobha Bazzar (fish kabiraji, diamond fry, prawn cutlet)
8. Cocktails: Moulin Rouge, Park Street
26th December
1. Breakfast: Flurrys, Park Street (all day breakfast)
2. Victoria memorial
3. Papdi chat, jalmuri outside the memorial
4. Lunch (part 1): Mocambo, Park Street (deviled crab, baked Alaska)
5. Lunch (part 2): Bhoj company, New Market area (betuki paturi, sukhto)
6. Sweets: Mishti doi, jamun, baked sandesh at Biswa Bangla, Airport
Pending for our next visit to Kolkata:
1. Coffee house, College Street
2. Street food: Puchka, ghugni
3. Shyam Bazaar. Golbarir Kosha Mangsho
4. Shiraz/aminia: Chicken/mutton biryani and phirni
5. Mocambo's pepper deviled crab
6. Bow Barracks: Street home food (cutlet, vindaloo) during new year
7. Saldhana bakery (walnut cake)
While I fulfilled so many of my wishes which were on my bucket list since years (Moulin Rouge, Fish Kabiraji, Flurry's, Mocambo...), I have few favourites elaborated below that I will repeat whenever I go to the city again, and needless to say, they are highly recommended too!
1. Place: Mocambo, Park Street
What I loved: Chicken ala Kiev. This dish is insane. I am in a dilemma if I should reveal the surprise or not. Do me a favour, just go order it!
Other favourites (not mine, but of other Kolkata dwellers): Deviled crab (cheesier), Baked Alaska (it's all in the presentation).
What to remember: This place does not take table bookings and often involves long waiting periods. So, opt for a time that has less takers.
2. Place: Nahoum and Sons, New Market
What I loved: I really can't pick a favourite. Given a chance, I would have my breakfast of pies and cakes here everyday. I had the cheese samosa, mince pie, chicken pie, almond tart, marzipans among others (Just typing that made me hungry!). Just go there and pick what attracts you.
What to remember: Go early. I had to endure a long queue for almost half an hour a couple of days before Christmas, only to find most items sold out!
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| Durga idols at Kumartuli |
1. Nahoums, New Market (Cheese Samosa, fish Patrice, chicken pie)
2. Nabin Chandra Das sweets, near Kumartuli (gur rasagulla and regular rasagulla, rasagulla wrapped with malpua)
3. Kumartuli to see durga idols being made
4. Lunch: Arsalan (mutton biryani)
5. Visit to a friend's place
6. Local train from Shobha Bazaar to BBD Bagh to see Howrah from land.
7. Dinner: Mitra Cafe, Shobha Bazzar (fish kabiraji, diamond fry, prawn cutlet)
8. Cocktails: Moulin Rouge, Park Street
26th December
1. Breakfast: Flurrys, Park Street (all day breakfast)
2. Victoria memorial
3. Papdi chat, jalmuri outside the memorial
4. Lunch (part 1): Mocambo, Park Street (deviled crab, baked Alaska)
5. Lunch (part 2): Bhoj company, New Market area (betuki paturi, sukhto)
6. Sweets: Mishti doi, jamun, baked sandesh at Biswa Bangla, Airport
Pending for our next visit to Kolkata:
1. Coffee house, College Street
2. Street food: Puchka, ghugni
3. Shyam Bazaar. Golbarir Kosha Mangsho
4. Shiraz/aminia: Chicken/mutton biryani and phirni
5. Mocambo's pepper deviled crab
6. Bow Barracks: Street home food (cutlet, vindaloo) during new year
7. Saldhana bakery (walnut cake)
While I fulfilled so many of my wishes which were on my bucket list since years (Moulin Rouge, Fish Kabiraji, Flurry's, Mocambo...), I have few favourites elaborated below that I will repeat whenever I go to the city again, and needless to say, they are highly recommended too!
 |
| Checking off Flurry's from the bucket list |
1. Place: Mocambo, Park Street
What I loved: Chicken ala Kiev. This dish is insane. I am in a dilemma if I should reveal the surprise or not. Do me a favour, just go order it!
Other favourites (not mine, but of other Kolkata dwellers): Deviled crab (cheesier), Baked Alaska (it's all in the presentation).
What to remember: This place does not take table bookings and often involves long waiting periods. So, opt for a time that has less takers.
2. Place: Nahoum and Sons, New Market
What I loved: I really can't pick a favourite. Given a chance, I would have my breakfast of pies and cakes here everyday. I had the cheese samosa, mince pie, chicken pie, almond tart, marzipans among others (Just typing that made me hungry!). Just go there and pick what attracts you.
What to remember: Go early. I had to endure a long queue for almost half an hour a couple of days before Christmas, only to find most items sold out!
 |
| The loong pre-Christmas queue at Nahoum's |
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| They all were yummmm! |
3. Place: J Johnson (corner shop), New market
What I loved: The semi-soft, smoked Bandel cheese. If you like the smoked flavour in your dishes, this is a must have. All of Rs.8 for the size of a peda, this is quite a buy.
What to remember: After you fall for the cheese in the first bite and want to take it home, buy the dry one. The dry ones stay for a year, and when needed, has to be just soaked overnight.
4. Place: Balaram Mullick, sweet store.
Disclaimer: I don't like sweets. So, while I maybe choosy here, feel free to indulge yourselves.
What I loved: Baked rasagulla! And Kheer Khadum (pronounced khodum), which is basically dry rasagulla coated with dry shredded kheer.
Other favourites: Jal bhara sandesh (pronounced Jol bhora sondesh), which is molten jaggery within sandesh; Chenna poda (roasted cheese); gur rasagulla (jaggery rasagulla)...
What to remember: There are many outlets throughout the city. Also, pick one of whatever sweet entices you at the store before deciding what to indulge in.
5. Place: Mitra Cafe, Shobha Bazaar
What I loved: Fish Kabiraji. The origin of the name is 'fish coverage' as it is fish fillet covered with egg. Introduced by the then resident Britishers, the dish stayed to eventually become 'kabiraji' from 'coverage'. Everyone here orders just this one dish!!
Other favourites: Diamond fry which is a crisp fish fillet served with mustard sauce.
What to remember: The place opens at 5 pm, and apparently sell out by 8 pm. Also, the place does not have more than 5 tables cramped up in a tiny space. Indian Coffee House in College Street also dishes out great fish kabirajis.
6. Street food - anywhere!
What I loved:
A. Rolls at Hot Kathi Roll near Park Hotel, and Kusum rolls, midway on Park Street. I had them in my previous visit and unfortunately couldn't squeeze time for the rolls this visit.
B. Jalmuri. This is the Bengali cousin of bhel puri, only more spicier and with a generous dose of mustard.
What I loved: The semi-soft, smoked Bandel cheese. If you like the smoked flavour in your dishes, this is a must have. All of Rs.8 for the size of a peda, this is quite a buy.
What to remember: After you fall for the cheese in the first bite and want to take it home, buy the dry one. The dry ones stay for a year, and when needed, has to be just soaked overnight.
4. Place: Balaram Mullick, sweet store.
 |
| You cannot stop at just one! |
Disclaimer: I don't like sweets. So, while I maybe choosy here, feel free to indulge yourselves.
What I loved: Baked rasagulla! And Kheer Khadum (pronounced khodum), which is basically dry rasagulla coated with dry shredded kheer.
Other favourites: Jal bhara sandesh (pronounced Jol bhora sondesh), which is molten jaggery within sandesh; Chenna poda (roasted cheese); gur rasagulla (jaggery rasagulla)...
What to remember: There are many outlets throughout the city. Also, pick one of whatever sweet entices you at the store before deciding what to indulge in.
5. Place: Mitra Cafe, Shobha Bazaar
 |
| Fish Kabiraji |
What I loved: Fish Kabiraji. The origin of the name is 'fish coverage' as it is fish fillet covered with egg. Introduced by the then resident Britishers, the dish stayed to eventually become 'kabiraji' from 'coverage'. Everyone here orders just this one dish!!
Other favourites: Diamond fry which is a crisp fish fillet served with mustard sauce.
What to remember: The place opens at 5 pm, and apparently sell out by 8 pm. Also, the place does not have more than 5 tables cramped up in a tiny space. Indian Coffee House in College Street also dishes out great fish kabirajis.
6. Street food - anywhere!
 |
| Jalmuri |
A. Rolls at Hot Kathi Roll near Park Hotel, and Kusum rolls, midway on Park Street. I had them in my previous visit and unfortunately couldn't squeeze time for the rolls this visit.
B. Jalmuri. This is the Bengali cousin of bhel puri, only more spicier and with a generous dose of mustard.
I missed out on trying the puchka, ghugni, chowmein,.. Seems like I will have to plan a visit again soon.
7. Authentic Bengali food, multiple places.
What I loved: Sukhto and Betuki Paturi, Bhoj Company, New Market. I had had my lunch and was full when I ordered these dishes. Yet, the mustard flavoured dishes completely won me over.
Other favourites: Poshto, mutton kosha
What to remember: These dishes are rich in mustard flavour. So, tread slowly if you are new to the flavour.
Where to stay?
 |
| Vintage love! |
What I loved: The vintage look of the entire place and the lift of course. The proximity to both Park Street and New Market is such a bonus for the price!
What to remember: Book the AC rooms as they are larger. The rooms are basic and clean, but not luxurious.
Sunderbans tour
We went with Backpackers Tour de Sunderbans, and I think it is easily one of the best choices I made on this trip.
What I loved: From the word go, these guys are well organised with tastefully done office and eco-village.
What to remember: Although basic, the food and stay are good. The weather was on the colder side when we visited and hence, warm clothes will be useful. There are more chances of you not spotting the tiger. Don't let that disappoint you. Look around if you are a bird watcher; or simply relax on the boat with a book.
So, go ahead and plan your next trip to Kolkata. There is a lot of information on places to visit available on the net. This blog post will help you with what to eat, esp if you are a non-vegetarian.
What I loved: From the word go, these guys are well organised with tastefully done office and eco-village.
What to remember: Although basic, the food and stay are good. The weather was on the colder side when we visited and hence, warm clothes will be useful. There are more chances of you not spotting the tiger. Don't let that disappoint you. Look around if you are a bird watcher; or simply relax on the boat with a book.
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| Sunset at the eco-village |
I will have to stop blogging now, because my smoked Bandel cheese is calling out to me. 🙂
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