We traveled to Uttar Pradesh in April 2017. Yes, yes, very hot. But, beautiful!
The itinerary was as follows -
Lucknow for the Nawabi architecture and food (2 days)
Allahabad for the prayag and well, food!! (1 day)
Varanasi for the experience (2.5 days)
Sarnath (half a day)
The itinerary was as follows -
Lucknow for the Nawabi architecture and food (2 days)
Allahabad for the prayag and well, food!! (1 day)
Varanasi for the experience (2.5 days)
Sarnath (half a day)
However, Varanasi stole the limelight and hence this blog post is dedicated to the oldest city of the country.
Diary entry 1 - Boat rides and the ghats
I saw the ghats of Varanasi first in the fading light of the day and was mesmerised by it. The boat ride from Assi ghat to Manikarnika ghat was enchanting, except for the mosquito like insects. At the Dasashwamedh ghat there were boats aplenty, thus our boat got the farthest 'river space' to witness the famed Ganga aarti which was the agenda of this first boat ride.
We took our next boat ride along the same route next morning. The view from the boat ride gives the bigger picture - of the picturesque ghats and life associated with the ghats. The ghats are of myriad types - some colourful, some monochrome, some palatial, some simple, but all of them majestic. The people and their habits contribute to the changing hues of life every ten steps are so. Actually, there is no demarcation between the ghats - the changes are dynamic.
The ghats offers you a peek into its life. From boxing classes to young kids head diving into the water for their swimming lessons, from the classical music morning - Subah-e-Banaras to the Ghat Sandhya where dances are performed every evening to enthral the transient crowd, from the localites who obtain their morning dose of meditation to the people who have travelled far and wide to wash off their 'sins', from those sleeping peacefully on the ghats to those who arrive 'sleeping' to attain salvation, the ghats offer a view of almost every spectrum of life one can imagine.
Diary entry 1 - Boat rides and the ghats
I saw the ghats of Varanasi first in the fading light of the day and was mesmerised by it. The boat ride from Assi ghat to Manikarnika ghat was enchanting, except for the mosquito like insects. At the Dasashwamedh ghat there were boats aplenty, thus our boat got the farthest 'river space' to witness the famed Ganga aarti which was the agenda of this first boat ride.
We took our next boat ride along the same route next morning. The view from the boat ride gives the bigger picture - of the picturesque ghats and life associated with the ghats. The ghats are of myriad types - some colourful, some monochrome, some palatial, some simple, but all of them majestic. The people and their habits contribute to the changing hues of life every ten steps are so. Actually, there is no demarcation between the ghats - the changes are dynamic.
The ghats offers you a peek into its life. From boxing classes to young kids head diving into the water for their swimming lessons, from the classical music morning - Subah-e-Banaras to the Ghat Sandhya where dances are performed every evening to enthral the transient crowd, from the localites who obtain their morning dose of meditation to the people who have travelled far and wide to wash off their 'sins', from those sleeping peacefully on the ghats to those who arrive 'sleeping' to attain salvation, the ghats offer a view of almost every spectrum of life one can imagine.
Dasashwamedh ghat is believed to be the most spiritual of ghats and people throng to witness the Ganga aarti here. In the day time, numerous large umbrellas provide the shelter and address for the pandits who are much sought by the visitors for various kinds of appointment for/with their forefathers. It is probably the most occupied ghat.
Kedar ghat, also called Vijayanagaram ghat looks a lot like a temple in south India. So, it is no surprise that you see a lot of south Indians here. Apparently, just behind this ghat you can pamper yourself with authentic south Indian dishes.
Assi ghat is where the Subah-e-Banaras, a morning musical programme happens, along with the morning aarti. In the evening, Ghat Sandhya attempts to bring together the spiritual and the cultural aspects.
As you walk you find Rajput era styled ghats, numerous shiv lings which are bathed in the Ganga water by the devout, a ghat covered with white sheets just washed by the washer-men in raincoats, many tourists taking photographs of the interesting graffiti, men painfully cleaning the river beds and pulling out any piece of plastic that catches their eye, saffron and black robed men with matted hair - some in in yogic postures, some meditating, some seemingly transfixed on something distant, some giving 'interviews' to the curious onlookers; men preparing their nets for fishing, some insisting on taking you on a boat ride, some smoking (it's Shiva's place after all), some massaging, some selling piping hot tea in earthen cups... Well,... I could go on and on. Like I said, life exists on the banks of this river. People live off her and by her. And what about the death, you ask? Mother Ganga has provision for that too.
It is said that at Manikarnika ghat, also known as the burning ghat, the fire has never been put off as the ghat sees around 150 pyres each day! Life thrives along the ghats at Varanasi. And so, it completes the spectrum when you see the departed, brought from far and wide to one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi, dipped in Ganga, water poured into the mouth, and finally cremated on the banks. This is because the ghat is considered sacred and is believed that people cremated here receive moksha or liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth. Some people considered death as 'unholy', so it is surprising that this is situated very close to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. One needs to witness the action in this place to feel the weird calming experience of appreciating the ritual, and the livelihoods created out of it. Okay! This alone requires an entire blog post! Also, it is one of the 51 Shaktipeeths, as Mata Sati's ear-ring fell here, and thus the name.
Situated very close to the Kashi Vishwanath temple, Kachori galli is a narrow lane and a landmark on its own, which serves as an all time diner. A localite told us that there is also a custom where people, after cremating the departed at the Manikarnika ghat, make it a point to have kachoris in one of the many shops dotting this lane. Weird I thought! But, maybe that is to signify that 'Life Goes On'.
It is at Varanasi that it occurs to you that the Ganges is not just a river, but an emotion. She has stayed longer than anyone of us and witnessed not just eras, but the rise and fall of civilisations. While both the dead and the alive come seeking to the patient mother for salvation, the others live by her, and off her - truly a mother!
Diary entry 2 - Ganga aarti
On her many ghats, aarti is performed to Mother Ganga in the evening just after sunset. Hugely watched from the Dasashwamedh ghat, it does make for an event to be witnessed. The devotees and others flock the ghats to watch it from either the ghat or from a boat on the river. Mini stages erected on the ghat serve as stage for the pandits to perform the ritual facing the river with the crowd sitting behind and beside.
Young male pandits dressed in yellow/ orange shiny kurta, white dhoti, and other paraphernalia perform the ritual which lasts over an hour. Starting with the blowing of the conch, the pandits wave their hands during the aarti in various patterns which looks choreographed and staged mainly because they nervously look at each other as to what 'step' comes next and also to appear synchronized.
During the ritual, many items are used- a snake shaped aarti with flames that are tended to through out the aarti, a towering aarti with multiple lamps, incense aarti, peacock feathers' fan, and so on. The background score of chants and recorded bhajans provides rhythm for the aarti.
The crowd plays its part by clapping along which actually makes the whole atmosphere feel electric, and the energy is palpable. Marigold flower petals are thrown in the air occasionally. Some of the petals are distributed to the crowd who are requested to offer it to the river in the front after which, prasad is distributed.
The large flames against the dark sky makes it a spectacular event, but not really spiritual. Infact, the shayan aarti (aarti to put the Lord to sleep) inside the Kashi Vishwanath temple was more electrifying and provided that 'oneness' feeling.
It is interesting that people are allowed to witness the aarti with their footwear on. There are no qualms of what your religion is. It is open for all and when there are less rules, there is more acceptance. That is what Varanasi taught me.
To witness the Ganga aarti, reach well before dusk to secure the best place and witness it on any of the ghats. But for the best experience, watch it at the Dasashwamedh ghat. You can also watch it from the river on a boat and this gives a different perspective. Best, do both. First evening watch the performance from the ghat, next evening take the boat ride.
Kedar ghat, also called Vijayanagaram ghat looks a lot like a temple in south India. So, it is no surprise that you see a lot of south Indians here. Apparently, just behind this ghat you can pamper yourself with authentic south Indian dishes.
Assi ghat is where the Subah-e-Banaras, a morning musical programme happens, along with the morning aarti. In the evening, Ghat Sandhya attempts to bring together the spiritual and the cultural aspects.
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| Kathak by the Ganges as part of 'Ghat-Sandhya' - an evening celebrating the confluence of art, culture and spirituality. |
As you walk you find Rajput era styled ghats, numerous shiv lings which are bathed in the Ganga water by the devout, a ghat covered with white sheets just washed by the washer-men in raincoats, many tourists taking photographs of the interesting graffiti, men painfully cleaning the river beds and pulling out any piece of plastic that catches their eye, saffron and black robed men with matted hair - some in in yogic postures, some meditating, some seemingly transfixed on something distant, some giving 'interviews' to the curious onlookers; men preparing their nets for fishing, some insisting on taking you on a boat ride, some smoking (it's Shiva's place after all), some massaging, some selling piping hot tea in earthen cups... Well,... I could go on and on. Like I said, life exists on the banks of this river. People live off her and by her. And what about the death, you ask? Mother Ganga has provision for that too.
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| Ghats of Varanasi |
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| The burning ghat. Source: Wikipedia |
It is at Varanasi that it occurs to you that the Ganges is not just a river, but an emotion. She has stayed longer than anyone of us and witnessed not just eras, but the rise and fall of civilisations. While both the dead and the alive come seeking to the patient mother for salvation, the others live by her, and off her - truly a mother!
Diary entry 2 - Ganga aarti
On her many ghats, aarti is performed to Mother Ganga in the evening just after sunset. Hugely watched from the Dasashwamedh ghat, it does make for an event to be witnessed. The devotees and others flock the ghats to watch it from either the ghat or from a boat on the river. Mini stages erected on the ghat serve as stage for the pandits to perform the ritual facing the river with the crowd sitting behind and beside.
Young male pandits dressed in yellow/ orange shiny kurta, white dhoti, and other paraphernalia perform the ritual which lasts over an hour. Starting with the blowing of the conch, the pandits wave their hands during the aarti in various patterns which looks choreographed and staged mainly because they nervously look at each other as to what 'step' comes next and also to appear synchronized.
During the ritual, many items are used- a snake shaped aarti with flames that are tended to through out the aarti, a towering aarti with multiple lamps, incense aarti, peacock feathers' fan, and so on. The background score of chants and recorded bhajans provides rhythm for the aarti.
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| The much talked about, much anticipated Ganga aarti. The energy and enthusiasm is infectious |
The large flames against the dark sky makes it a spectacular event, but not really spiritual. Infact, the shayan aarti (aarti to put the Lord to sleep) inside the Kashi Vishwanath temple was more electrifying and provided that 'oneness' feeling.
It is interesting that people are allowed to witness the aarti with their footwear on. There are no qualms of what your religion is. It is open for all and when there are less rules, there is more acceptance. That is what Varanasi taught me.
To witness the Ganga aarti, reach well before dusk to secure the best place and witness it on any of the ghats. But for the best experience, watch it at the Dasashwamedh ghat. You can also watch it from the river on a boat and this gives a different perspective. Best, do both. First evening watch the performance from the ghat, next evening take the boat ride.
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